![]() ![]() ![]() Rick Bayless, the Chicago chef – and Obama favourite – who’s devoted his career to advancing the cause of authentic Mexican food north of the border, reckons tomatoes are “a critical ingredient in Mexican cuisine, second only to chillies” – so it makes sense that both play such a large part in this most basic of condiments. The origins may be Mexican, but, like ketchup, the appeal is universal.Īlthough there’s a salsa for every occasion – smoky chipotle for strong, gamey flavours, zesty green tomatillo ones for pairing with fish or eggs – the sort to which Lambert Ortiz refers is probably the most versatile: she describes it, in the recipe that follows, as “a most useful sauce … it takes little time to make and has a fresh flavour goes with eggs, steak, tortilla dishes, fish and shellfish.” Which pretty much covers every base. These flavours work just as well with a simply-grilled piece of meat as they do with a pulled pork taco. Elisabeth Lambert Ortiz, the late Harrow-born, Jamaican-educated author of the masterful Complete Book of Mexican Cooking observes that, “though salsa is simply the Spanish for ‘sauce’ it early became attached to one particular Mexican sauce in the early days of US settlement in California” – a zingy jumble of tomato, onion, chilli, salt and acid in the form of vinegar or citrus juices. ![]()
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